PH Customz

Well, I finally got everything accumulated and got a little time to work on it. - I've posted a couple more detailed build threads on some of the bigger forums, but couldn't leave a good forum out.

I went all-out with the IRS conversion, re-building most of the frame to be oriented specifically for the IRS and the motor swap, along with doing a 2" body lift to better fit the bigger motor and too make my 6'2" self more comfortable on the bike.

Gotta love plasma-cutters! What I used of the stock frame:

New frame:

I extended the frame 3.5" up front, widening the lower arms that much(more leverage thus no need for track bars) and altering the uppers to be like a foreman, rancher, etc so as to not have to twist the arms and/or tie-rods around each other. - Close-up of front frame showing extended length & relocated mounting points:

I extended the axles 6"(sleeved stockers till they give trouble; 1"od x.134 wall DOM) and built arched a-arms. I used new rincon rear shocks on all 4 corners.

I re-used the stock ball joint mounts, but set everything "neutral" at my ride height. This allows plenty of upward travel, but also allows me to go past my current 33* joint angle if/when I swap to Turner axles(will have to swap spindles as well, I know).

I stuck with OE tie-rod ends as well, simply cutting the OE rod and sleeving it with the same 3/4x.095 DOM tubing as I built the arms from. I "s" bent the tubing to again neutral the joints.

Out back I used kodiak IRS spindles; simply cutting the seal area off a set of honda 300 front hubs to fit into them. Arched arms with a wide width again:

The '86 350d motor was properly freshened with the typical host of performance goodies. Wiseco piston/rings, Web cam, 35% gear reduction, EPI 2k stall clutch kit, ported head, new valves/grind job, new timing chain, and all new gaskets and seals.  - Fitting it with the 300 t-case is not nearly as simple of a task as many seem to believe, but not a big ordeal either in lue of everything else that was being done.

I broke a rear diff on the first ride, but breaking a flipped front was to be expected(especially one that was previously wounded and welded). The major issue in these seems to be the "cap" piece of the carrier that bolts on behind the ring gear. It's a machined cast, and the snout section that goes out into the case bearing breaks off under stress, thus allowing the carrier to "float" and letting the ring gear climb the pinion instead of turning. The end result is "POP".  - I've got another diff coming and am debating a couple options to solve this, as I believe it to be the only real strength issue with these diffs.

So, w/o further ado, here it is sitting on the 27 vamps I was on stock. Hoping to kick-up a set of 28 s/w backs for it, I'm sure it could pull more but the little extra gc isn't worth the added drivetrain stress to me with as big as the bike already is.

Just under 17" to the bottom of the frame with the 27's: