Disclaimer: PH Customz is not responsible for any damage caused to you or your bike. Install the oil cooler relocated at your own risk.
Ok you just cut the medal crimp off the factory hose go slow on cutting the OE clamp so you dont cut the pipe under the clamp. Buy 3/8 new heavy duty rubber hose the lenght you need and use hose clamps to secure the new hose. I used a auto trans cooler and a 10" fan you can get the part's from any auto part's store. I wired my fan in with OE fan so it will come on at the same time and I also put a switch so I could cut it off and on when needed. Now how to mount it up to you some people some people use a box to put the cooler in and put the fan on top of it. I think that is the best way so nothing with hit the cooler.
I will add some pic when I find the one's I have
-- Edited by Badforeman475 at 22:17, 2009-01-17
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98 Foreman 450 DGL 14% GR 475BBK Snorkle S-I-G Mod HL Springs Jetted Uni Filter Glass Pack Relocated Fan/Oil Cooler 28" SilverBacks on SS112's Coming 35% GR 30's or 32's Backs A Big IRS Lift
If you relocate your stock radiator on a 02 Rubicon does the oil cooler need to stay attacted? If not, where would be the best place to mound it. Thanks
you should only have a rad on that bike its water cooled not oil cooled
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98 Foreman 450 DGL 14% GR 475BBK Snorkle S-I-G Mod HL Springs Jetted Uni Filter Glass Pack Relocated Fan/Oil Cooler 28" SilverBacks on SS112's Coming 35% GR 30's or 32's Backs A Big IRS Lift
Thanks, but their is a coil looking item attached to the front of the rad, thought that was an oil cooler. Do you know what it is? Again, thanks for your help.
hmmm I have not looked at one real good it might have one I will have one here this weekend and I will check it out. But moving the rad will help keep the mud out of it and will help it stay cooler to
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98 Foreman 450 DGL 14% GR 475BBK Snorkle S-I-G Mod HL Springs Jetted Uni Filter Glass Pack Relocated Fan/Oil Cooler 28" SilverBacks on SS112's Coming 35% GR 30's or 32's Backs A Big IRS Lift
I RECENTLY DID THAT TO MY 350 RANCHER. I SPLICED IT INTO THE FACTORY HOSE BUT IT DIDNT HOLD UP WHILE RIDING. THE FACTORY HOSE IS BRAIDED AND THE THE RUBBER KEPT BUSTING. I WAS GOING TO GET ONE MADE BUT I LIKE UR IDEA. IMA GIVE IT A SHOT.
98 Foreman 450 DGL 14% GR 475BBK Snorkle S-I-G Mod HL Springs Jetted Uni Filter Glass Pack Relocated Fan/Oil Cooler 28" SilverBacks on SS112's Coming 35% GR 30's or 32's Backs A Big IRS Lift
98 Foreman 450 DGL 14% GR 475BBK Snorkle S-I-G Mod HL Springs Jetted Uni Filter Glass Pack Relocated Fan/Oil Cooler 28" SilverBacks on SS112's Coming 35% GR 30's or 32's Backs A Big IRS Lift
ok yeah I see the cooler now yeah your right it would be better to leave it on the rad
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98 Foreman 450 DGL 14% GR 475BBK Snorkle S-I-G Mod HL Springs Jetted Uni Filter Glass Pack Relocated Fan/Oil Cooler 28" SilverBacks on SS112's Coming 35% GR 30's or 32's Backs A Big IRS Lift
1)For those who stand the cooler up on the front rack, it's best to keep the inlet/outlet to the top, just like stock. Doing so keeps the oil from draing back out of the cooler when shut-off, thus negating the pump having to re-fill the cooler before feeding oil to the engine. - This is why most factory coolers have the fittings on the top.
If they drain back it creates a period of time during and following start-up where the engine is running w/o oil flow. With many guys running larger aftermarket coolers, the time w/o oil can be fairly substancial and can easily cause excessive wear/tear on the engine. - It may not be something that shows up right away, but over time it will signifigantly decrease the life of your engine.
Just as stock though, when your change the oil the cooler will not drain, thus will still have that much used oil in it. If you keep up with regular maintenance this is not an issue, but if you let it go overly long or swamp the oil it will be more difficult to flush the system out w/o removing and draining the cooler.
2) Most factory coolers are "plate/fin" type coolers, which use a series of flat looking crossovers passages between the inlet and outlet; similiar to a radiator. These type of coolers ar far more efficient than the cheaper aftermarket "tube type" coolers; which have a single tube the loops back and forth through the cooling fins. - Usually 60-70% more efficient, meaning you would need a tube type cooler more than twice as big as the stocker just to have the same cooling efficiency. Obviously there is some gain in getting the cooler away from the hot engine and up into "clean" air, but it's still best to spend the extra money and get the proper type of cooler in the first place.
-- Edited by JPs300 on Wednesday 20th of July 2011 10:31:04 AM
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'09Thundercat - 1000ish
SpeedWerx powa, /// WCD, 4" catvos, 29.5 terms
'96 300 ...a little taller & a little more power than most.....
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